A Guide to Collecting Vintage Thread
Not too long ago, while shopping at Goodwill, I came across a large wooden bin filled with over a hundred and fifty spools of vintage thread. Though priced a bit high for me ($7.99), I decided to go ahead and make the purchase.
Each spool effectively cost 5¢, making the price ultimately well worth it since I knew I could use them to make these cute Christmas decorations. They sold quite briskly for $3.50 each at last year’s Christmas craft show.
But as I began going through the bin once I arrived home, I became more and more interested in learning about the the thread companies whose names I saw on the colorful spool tops. Hence today’s post about collecting vintage thread.
Historians credit James and Patrick Clark, mill owners in Paisley (Scotland) with developing the first cotton thread.
When silk and flax became scarce during the Napoleonic wars, they were forced to find a suitable replacement with which to create their famous (and profitable) Paisley shawls.
The smooth, durable cotton thread that they developed in response to the crisis literally saved the Paisley shawl industry!
Eventually, some Clark family members moved to America and began their own thread companies, including John J. Clark (above). Their first U.S. thread factory opened in Newark, NJ in 1864.
The letters “ONT” on the spool seen above stands for “Our New Thread,” which refers to specialized thread they developed in 1850 for sewing machines, a market Clark excelled in.
Interestingly, the Clark family also lays claim to creating the first wooden spools designed to hold yard upon yard of the cotton thread.
In the UK, spools of thread initially had a small, half penny, deposit levied on them, much like soda bottles do today.
Once the thread had been completely used, the spool could be returned for the deposit. Mass production put an end to the deposits since the spools could be produced so cheaply.
In about 1830, another famous name in thread–Coats–began manufacturing in Paisley, providing competition to the Clark’s and making a world-wide name for itself, as well.
The above J & P Coats spool is a nice example of a unique spool shape, with all of it’s smooth curves.
The thread that you see above is wrapped around sturdy “spools” of hard cardboard. They are nice and chunky and a collection of 5 or 7 would look great in a wooden bowl or glass jar.
The two companies–Coats and Clark’s–became closely affiliated with each other in the 1930’s and later in the 1950’s finally merged into one company.
Still in business today, the company continues to manufacture high quality thread and maintains its headquarters in South Carolina.
It surprised me to learn that Belding & Corticelli, a silk thread manufacturer, was American rather than Italian.
Their story, in fact, begins in Belding (MI) where two Belding brothers opened a shop in their home to produce spools of silk thread that they then marketed door to door.
As they grew, they opened factories and sales shops around the country, from which traveling salesmen operated.
In 1932, Belding Bros. & Company purchased Corticelli Silk Company, but the silk industry had died in America, due in large part to the Great Depression. The company closed its doors within the year.
Not much is known about Max Pollack & Co. Inc., except that they operated a silk mill in Mansfield, CT from about 1900 to 1940. Textile companies of all kinds located in this area of Connecticut.
The Rice Silk Mill, located in Pittsfield (MA), has a local connection for me as it lies only a hour away, just over the border with NY.
The company opened its doors in 1887, producing fine silk and mohair textiles. The Rice family owned and operated the facility until the 1980’s when a NYC company bought it. Operations ceased in 2006.
Located in Shelby (NC) and founded in 1903, Lily Mills is the youngest of the thread companies represented in my Goodwill bin. I couldn’t find a closing date for Lily Mills; it may have remained operational until perhaps the 1960’s.
NOTE: A reader wrote in (below) and informed me that her grandfather, artist Kenneth Harris, designed the Lily Mills logo. I just love these sort of connections, so thanks Frieda for giving us insider info!
Is my new stash going to make me wealthy? No, I don’t think so. These diminutive collectibles were made in the millions and new stashes are discovered every day in Grandma’s sewing basket.
But they are delightful to decorate with (how about filling an apothecary jar with them?) and to craft with, as I’ve mentioned. Their handsome typography transports us back to a simpler time when ladies sat stitching by the glow of the fire. (Or something like that…)
I cannot finish my story about thread without mentioning that while Scotsmen James and Patrick Clark gets most of the credit for developing cotton thread, our very own Hannah Slater of Pawtucket, RI patented her own version of cotton thread in 1793.
She was the first woman in the U.S. to receive a patent. I think that’s worth remembering, don’t you? Read more about Hannah Slater HERE.
Bye for now,
History of Cotton Thread
The story of the development of thread, cotton thread in particular, is an interesting one. All sources seem to agree that Napoleon Bonaparte deserves some of the credit. His economic blockade of England in the early 1800’s, while not terribly effective overall, did however prevent silk from entering the UK. At that time, manufacturers produced thread with silk. Without it England’s textile industry began to fail, since neither they nor the average homemaker had access to the thread they needed.Clark’s Thread
Historians credit James and Patrick Clark, mill owners in Paisley (Scotland) with developing the first cotton thread.
When silk and flax became scarce during the Napoleonic wars, they were forced to find a suitable replacement with which to create their famous (and profitable) Paisley shawls.
The smooth, durable cotton thread that they developed in response to the crisis literally saved the Paisley shawl industry!
Eventually, some Clark family members moved to America and began their own thread companies, including John J. Clark (above). Their first U.S. thread factory opened in Newark, NJ in 1864.
The letters “ONT” on the spool seen above stands for “Our New Thread,” which refers to specialized thread they developed in 1850 for sewing machines, a market Clark excelled in.
Interestingly, the Clark family also lays claim to creating the first wooden spools designed to hold yard upon yard of the cotton thread.
In the UK, spools of thread initially had a small, half penny, deposit levied on them, much like soda bottles do today.
Once the thread had been completely used, the spool could be returned for the deposit. Mass production put an end to the deposits since the spools could be produced so cheaply.
J & P Coats Thread
In about 1830, another famous name in thread–Coats–began manufacturing in Paisley, providing competition to the Clark’s and making a world-wide name for itself, as well.
The above J & P Coats spool is a nice example of a unique spool shape, with all of it’s smooth curves.
The thread that you see above is wrapped around sturdy “spools” of hard cardboard. They are nice and chunky and a collection of 5 or 7 would look great in a wooden bowl or glass jar.
Coats & Clark’s Thread
The two companies–Coats and Clark’s–became closely affiliated with each other in the 1930’s and later in the 1950’s finally merged into one company.
Still in business today, the company continues to manufacture high quality thread and maintains its headquarters in South Carolina.
Belding & Corticelli Thread
It surprised me to learn that Belding & Corticelli, a silk thread manufacturer, was American rather than Italian.
Their story, in fact, begins in Belding (MI) where two Belding brothers opened a shop in their home to produce spools of silk thread that they then marketed door to door.
As they grew, they opened factories and sales shops around the country, from which traveling salesmen operated.
In 1932, Belding Bros. & Company purchased Corticelli Silk Company, but the silk industry had died in America, due in large part to the Great Depression. The company closed its doors within the year.
Max Pollack & Co. Thread
Not much is known about Max Pollack & Co. Inc., except that they operated a silk mill in Mansfield, CT from about 1900 to 1940. Textile companies of all kinds located in this area of Connecticut.
Rice’s Silk Mill
The Rice Silk Mill, located in Pittsfield (MA), has a local connection for me as it lies only a hour away, just over the border with NY.
The company opened its doors in 1887, producing fine silk and mohair textiles. The Rice family owned and operated the facility until the 1980’s when a NYC company bought it. Operations ceased in 2006.
Lily Thread
Located in Shelby (NC) and founded in 1903, Lily Mills is the youngest of the thread companies represented in my Goodwill bin. I couldn’t find a closing date for Lily Mills; it may have remained operational until perhaps the 1960’s.
NOTE: A reader wrote in (below) and informed me that her grandfather, artist Kenneth Harris, designed the Lily Mills logo. I just love these sort of connections, so thanks Frieda for giving us insider info!
Dating Spools of Thread
Unfortunately, it’s almost impossible to date spools to specific time periods. Most of the time I’m limited to simply referring to them as “vintage” or “antique” depending upon the typography of the label.
Is my new stash going to make me wealthy? No, I don’t think so. These diminutive collectibles were made in the millions and new stashes are discovered every day in Grandma’s sewing basket.
But they are delightful to decorate with (how about filling an apothecary jar with them?) and to craft with, as I’ve mentioned. Their handsome typography transports us back to a simpler time when ladies sat stitching by the glow of the fire. (Or something like that…)
I cannot finish my story about thread without mentioning that while Scotsmen James and Patrick Clark gets most of the credit for developing cotton thread, our very own Hannah Slater of Pawtucket, RI patented her own version of cotton thread in 1793.
She was the first woman in the U.S. to receive a patent. I think that’s worth remembering, don’t you? Read more about Hannah Slater HERE.
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Bye for now,
Another post you might be interested in:
Making vintage thread ornaments
I’d Love it if You’d Pin Me!
What a wonderful post. I have spools and spools of my mother’s. Some with thread and some without.
I enjoyed reading the history of the companies and will share this with my sisters.
I’m so glad you enjoyed the post! Such a blessing to have sweet little reminders of your mother 🙂
I enjoyed this information. I found a lot of wooden spools of thread from my sewing stuff when I was about 13 years old. I’m 69 now. I did find 2 really short wooden spools with silk thread. I was curious to see if they were worth anything. One of them is unused. It’s a real pretty cream color. Do you think it would it be usable?
I’m not sure if your silk thread is still usable Jeri. That might take some research on how silk thread holds up over time. But there is some small value to individual spools of silk thread. I’ve sold collections of about ten spools for $10-12 on eBay. Fly fishermen who make their own flies are especially interested in silk thread.
I love that!!!! I too share a passion for these vintage spools. Over the years I have accumulated hundreds. I finally decided to do something with them and sent a few to my daughter so my autistic grandson could play with them. Easton was fascinated with how they felt–he has texture issues, and does not like rough feeling toys. He was enamored and since he is non verbal, his excitement was well documented in his eyes and facial expressions. He takes very good care of these spools and plays with them daily.
I recently sent my daughter several more, in various shapes and sizes for the ever-so-clever idea I had; although I’m certain somebody else came up with this idea before I did, LOL. I suggested she turn 32 of the spools into chess pieces and then teach Easton how to play. She loved this idea. She herself hasn’t mastered the game but was super excited at the opportunity for her son learn.
I always wondered who I would pass my spools onto since she never shows much interest in them while growing up. Now my precious and beloved collection will have a home when I pass and hopefully be a lovely reminder of where they came from.
To my surprise she now has taken an interest in the history of these little gems and has begun to collect them on her own!!! Thanks for this awesome and informative article which I will share with her!! 🙂
What a beautiful story Melissa! Thanks so much for sharing it with me. God bless you all as you enjoy these little pieces of history.
Lovely history! I bought a woman’s Grandmother’s sewing box full of these spools, Rick-rack and other notions for $1 and wondered about their history and age. Thank you for posting!
You’re welcome Diana! I’m so glad the article was helpful. Sounds like you got a great deal 🙂
This is great information. My husband just lost his mom and we wondered what and where this spool and oak cabinet came from. Now we have to figure out what we’re going to do with our newly discovered Clark’s ONT oak cabinet.
I’m so glad my article helped you identify what you have Patti! Enjoy your cabinet 🙂
I also have one. it’s very well made and looks really nice. wonder what they are worth if anything.!!!!
Hi Diana. I clearly remember using Lily crochet/tatting thread for a project in 1963-4. It was a handmade tapestry and I used the cotton threads for the warp on a handmade frame. I also worked for JCPennys in 1967 and recall at least some Lily publications/patterns in the Sewing Department where I worked during other’s lunch breaks. I found this article very interesting….you always find such great things, thanks for sharing, Sandi
Such helpful info for dating purposes, Sandi!Thanks for sharing it with us 🙂 So glad you enjoyed the post–thanks for your kind words–
I recently found your article and I am so pleased to see so much information in one place. I found a bunch of old spools/bobbins (I’m still unsure what to call them) some with thread& some with none. There are a few zippers and tons of buttons I don’t think my find is going to put me in a higher tax bracket but this information has made this find a nice reminder of how things were once crafted with love and much care.
I’m so glad you enjoyed the article Denise. Sounds like you came across quite a treasure trove. Just as an FYI, I have two articles about vintage and antique buttons that you might also find interesting 🙂
I enjoyed this post very much. You are a good storyteller.
I’ve only a few wooden spools thus far, so I put them in a vintage canning jar, the kind with the wire bale. Looks nice on the shelf of my sewing area.
Thanks again.
Hi Sue! So glad you enjoyed the post–you’re very kind 🙂 I bet your spools look terrific in an old canning jar–the perfect decoration for a sewing area.
Diana your posts are always so informative. I have about a gallon of wooden spools and they are stored in a gallon sized jar. They sure have a cozy feel to them.
So sweet of you to say, Anita! Thank for stopping in to chat 🙂
Some very serious pinning just happened. I love the way you included all the thread details and some history in your post today Diana. Thank you.
Joy
Thanks so much, Joy!! I appreciate the pins 🙂 Glad you enjoyed the post–
Really interesting and now I’ll keep my eyes open for wooden spools. Thanks Diane.
So glad you liked the post, Kim 🙂
What a great find! Many people like to collect the old wooden spools and also use for crafting.
Thanks Rose–they’re a fun collectible for sure 🙂
Diana, I loved your delightful post on vintage thread. It is so informative. Thanks for sharing. Sylvia D.
Hi Diana – just popping in from the Favorite Things Blog Hop. Love this post! I’m going to feature it and link back on my Tuesday Treasures blog post at Vintage Mama’s Cottage. I hope you’ll stop by and see some of the other favorites I found at last week’s blog hop. Looking forward to catching up with you next week at the hop1 Nina @ Vintage Mama’s Cottage
Hi Nina–thanks SO much for the feature! You made my day 🙂 I will certainly stop by and link up tomorrow. Thanks again!
One of my favorite collections! I can not resist pretty thread on an awesome wooden spool! Thanks for sharing with SYC.
hugs,
Jann
This is a fascinating post, Diana! I have a lot of vintage thread and have always wondered what O.N.T. meant. I also own a vintage advertising card from the Corticelli Spool Silk that you alluded to.
Hello Diana~ In my attempt to “de-accumulate” some things, I have come upon 19 wooden spools (small size) full of thread. I was ready to toss them into the Goodwill bag and thought someone might be interested in purchasing them for a collection. I am an avid quilter, but I hesitate to use the thread since I don’t know if it will hold up over time. All but one of the spools are marked Ivory Brand Hand and Machine sewing and don’t appear to have ever been used. The remaining spool is marked Coats and Clark Boilfast (marked 15 cents) and has some thread on the spool. Can you give me any information on the age of these spools of thread ? Thank you in advance for any help you can offer.
Hi Colleen! It sounds like you have some interesting spools 🙂 As I mentioned in the article, Coats & Clark, which were originally separate companies, merged their names in 1950. I included some other interesting facts about these two companies, if you haven’t had a chance to read it yet.
I also provided several links to various articles that helped me prepare mine. Unfortunately, I’ve never come across the Ivory Brand you mentioned–I’d have to see some pictures to have any chance at determining their age. Feel free to join my Facebook group, Your Vintage Headquarters, where you could post photos and ask questions. Other members will offer help and suggestions, if they can. Thanks for stopping by!
Loved the article. I got my grandmother’s spools & wanted to display them some way. Your jar is a terrific idea. I’ll display my jar of old buttons & spools side by side.
They will look wonderful together Jan!
Hi, really enjoyed your history on wooden spools. I am currently painting 15 of my small spools with matte polyurethane so I can use them as drawer pulls in my sewing room. Love the look and the history behind them. I also used some as decoration on my sewing room wall!
I have boxes of lots of colors of 10 cent thread. So fun!
My friend and I saw a spool of Lily thread in an antique store this morning, and I found your post after a search for “Lily Thread”. Very interesting! Enjoyed learning more about the history of thread and sewing!
Hello, looking through my mom’s old sewing box I came across an old spool. Proud of my grandfather as he was a tailor from Naples Italy. It’s from the Max Pollack Co, but has the word Empeco not Manila is on the top. Could you please tell me the difference. Thank You
Hi Nancy! Thanks so much for stopping by. Unfortunately, not a lot is known about the Max Pollack Co. My best guess is that Empeco and Manila refer to different types or brands of thread within the larger Pollack brand. Otherwise I couldn’t tell you. Sorry I couldn’t be of more help–
Hello, just want to add something. Lily must still be in business, as they make the ever popular Sugar ‘n Cream Crochet Cotton still sold at Michael’s.
Thanks so much for that information! Not a lot of info out there about many of these thread companies–
Oh I’m glad to help. I actually have a few vintage sewing thread bobbins myself but I collect vintage and antique yarn, usually not a topic I get to talk about though.
This was an interesting post. I stumbled on it while trying to find out more about the Lily thread company because my grandfather designed their logo. It is surprisingly hard to find information but this post was a great resource! I was glad to read the part about lily thread and see a picture of the spool with a logo! Thank you!
I’m SO glad you enjoyed the post, Frieda, and that I was able to help you on your quest to learn more about the Lily brand. I love that you added to our knowledge base by letting us know that your grandfather designed their logo. I’m wondering if this was a one-time art venture for him or was he a graphic artist by trade? Would love to add his name to this post if you wouldn’t mind sharing it!
My grandfather was Kenneth Harris. He was a graphic artist by trade in Charlotte and Atlanta but left the business to become a full time painter. He mostly did watercolors and much of his work is of the Norfolk VA area where he was well known. He also wrote 2 books, How to make a living as a painter and the necessity for nonconformity (this is a collection of essays). The Chrysler Museum has a large collection of his work. I don’t know what other logos he did, but my aunt told me he did the Lily Thread logo.
Well isn’t this a wild coincidence—I came across this article looking for more info about a bunch of Lily Thread I inherited from my grandmother who also happens to be Kenneth Harris’ daughter! I am so thrilled to learn that Kenneth designed the Lily logo. How neat!
“Frieda” – I would love to know who this is! 🙂
I am repairing a hem on a coworker’s pant and despite having bags of embroidery floss, I couldn’t match the color until I found an old C&C wooden spool market 16A.
Interesting post! I much prefer the old wooden spools to the new plastic ones; they have much more character–and history!
Thank you for this post! I received a vintage (1950’s?) stool this morning and found 21 wooden spools inside!
Two were Lily spools, six are Clark’s, eight are Coats & Clark, and four are without labels.
The one spool that is a mystery is by Atinsil with the motto, “None Better” below the center hole. Do you know anything about this manufacturer?
Thanks so much. This was like finding buried treasure – and everything, including the sewing bench, was free!
Glad you enjoyed the post, Sandra! What fun to find treasure hidden in your new [free] stool 🙂 Unfortunately, I’ve not heard of the Atinsil company, but I do keep track of new info as I make discoveries and then add it back in to old posts to freshen them up. Thanks for dropping by!
I enjoyed your article. I was cleaning out the bag where I dumped the contents of my Mother’s sewing box when we were cleaning out her home. I was amazed at how many of the spools were wooden. Then checking my own spool holder, I was amazed to see how many wooden spools were there! I think I may put them in antique canning jars. I never use those threads, prefering to buy fresh thread.
Vey interesting. Thank you.
I’m so glad you enjoyed the post, Paula! I love the look of old spools of thread in canning jars–go for it!
Someone gave me a gallon bag of wood spools with thread on them. I found most of them in this article. I cannot locate Potter’s thread or anything about crochet thread – both on wood spools and cardboard spools from American Thread Co.
This article is quite informative, and I think you for identifying several threads in my new collection.
Diana,
I have a cabinet full of VERY old thread. What are good prices if I decide to list? They belonged to my Great Grandmother & Aunt.
Hi Tracey. I’ve never sold thread before since I usually use what I buy to craft with. Individual spools would not typically be worth a lot of money. You could try selling them for a few extra dollars in a canning jar. I do have a set of 8 large-sized spools in great colors and with star graphics currently listed in my Etsy shop of something like $28, but they haven’t sold yet. Good luck!
Although I’m not very good at sewing, I’m drawn to vintage sewing supplies; especially wooden thread spools. I filled a half gallon mason jar with spools, some empty, some not. It’s now the lamp on my desk. Loved the article.
There’s just something about them, right Tammy?? Your mason jar lamp sounds amazing! I’m so glad you enjoyed the article 🙂
Back to report that a few weeks ago while thrifting with my Hun Bun, I scored a whole bunch of wooden thread spools! One shop was closing out everything for 75% off; which made each spool 13 cents! Another store had 7 spools for $1! In all, about a 1/2 gallon mason jars’ worth; I still need to sort them. I mainly collect mason jars (Since 1994!) and have started down-sizing my collection. Preparing for retirement, I will be keeping the 1/2 pints: a) they’re cute and b) they’re small c) I love them filled with buttons & small thread spools!
Amazing scores Tammy!! I too love the 1/2 pints 🙂
Thank you so much for your article. I have a lot of the threads mentioned; my husband’s grandmother worked for Rice Mills in Pittsfield and handed down to me several spools of their silk thread. I am actually searching for imformation about Belding Corticelli Quilting thread, Art 3288. I don’t know if it is glacéed or not, and I understand that if so, it should not be used in a sewing machine. If anyone knows where to get more information about the specific properties of these antique threads, I would appreciate a response. Thanks.
I’m so glad you enjoyed the article Anita! If I come across any info about Belding Corticelli quilting thread I will certainly pass it on 🙂
I have been collecting Coates & Clark thread for a tread rack in my sewing room. It is to remember my grandmother who worked at the factory about 1910 while in her teens.
The latest batch of wooden spools I bought had some labeled Ivory Brand Sewing Thread. I have never heard of them. Do you have any information on them?
What a wonderful way to remember your grandmother, Cindy. I did a quick search for info related to Ivory brand thread and unfortunately didn’t turn up anything. I hope you get the answers you’re looking for!
I have a cigar box filled with wooden spools and a Mason Jar willed with spools wrapped in pretty pieces of fabric. All were my Mother’s.
I love that you have saved these special little heirlooms from you mom Cynthia 🙂
Back in the late 1950’s, my dad would take one of my mother’s empty thread spools, cut notches in each end, thread a rubber band through the center hole, and with each end of the rubber band holding a down-sized toothpick, wind up one end of the rubber-band/toothpick, and place it on the floor. Voila, a moving toy.
How fun Sherry! Thanks for sharing the idea with us 🙂
Hi, found you when going down a rabbit hole. I’ve been collecting wooden thread spools since the early 90’s. I carve the wood after the thread is removed. https://flickr.com/photos/21916993@N08/sets/72157603768643431 Hopefully this link will take you to pictures of my work. If not, and you’re interested, you can email me. Like you, I also find a lot of unique spools so I put those aside as a collection. Thanks for sharing the info you’ve found.
Your carvings are amazing Dale! Thanks for sharing them with us 🙂
Your carvings on used wooden spools is absolutely amazing. You are so talented. What a wonderful craft you have.
Thanks
Last week I acquired a vintage Davis treadle sewing machine and an old metal J.P. Coats thread display case – that came with 88 spools of thread, mostly silk. As I was sorting the spools, I noticed name changes in companies and wanted to learn some history. Your post was the first article I came across and really appreciate the information!
So glad I was able to provide some useful info for you Jen!
I’m an embroiderer and have just unearthed a number of skeins of Star six strand Embroidery Cotton. I’ve looked but can’t find anything about them! they were evidently part of the American Textile Company….or something. Love the colors! I’ll use them unless they are particularly worth saving. Have you any ideas as to where I can get information on the company? Thanks. Loved your article and all things handmade-vintage-antique!
What a fun find! I wish I could point you in the right direction but thread companies are notoriously difficult to find information about. Check on Amazon for a guide regarding thread. I think there are a couple out there. As far as whether you should use your skeins, I would say yes! Enjoy them. In general individual skeins or spools have relatively low value.
Mary Chesnutt has a fascinating story in her diary about visiting a thread factory around the time of the Civil War. https://www.gutenberg.org/ebooks/60908
Thanks for the info Pat. I’ll have to check it out 🙂
Hello. Enjoyed your article! I love vintage sewing items, and grew up poking through Grandma’s buttons, bows and threads. I recently found a commercial spool of a lovely navy 3 cord thread made by Standard Thread Co. NYC, but can’t find anything about the company. The thread is nice and strong, and the blue is still rich. Inside the spool it reads, “Our Guarantee It’s a Standard Product Standard Thread Co. N.Y.C. CABLE 3 Cord ZIG ZAG 60 6000 Yds. NAVY 431”. Any clue?
Hi Cheryl! Unfortunately, I’m not familiar with that company and darn it, there just isn’t a lot of info out their on the internet about the various thread companies. I had to hobble together what I could for this article. Good luck with your research!